From the road the park doesn't look
all that impressive. We have passed the gate to Kaloko-Honokohau National
Historical Park for years on our trips from Kona to COSTCO and never
thought to stop and check it out. We were
finally curious enough to visit the 1160 acre park to see its touted fishpond and unique fish trap.
Kaloko fishpond, the widest and
largest fishpond in the state of Hawaii, is on the northern end of the
park.
To get to it you have to walk across a barren lava field to the coast or
be willing to drive over a rough, dirt road accessible by a gate just north of
the Visitor’s Center gate on Highway 19.
The road is deeply rutted which
makes for a bumpy ride. Although we drove it in a sedan, we were worried that
the sharp rocks jutting up might pop the tires or rip out the
transmission.
The road intersects with the “King’s Trail” that runs along
the coast.
The road also passes by ancient rock walls and foundations.
At
the end of the road is a parking lot just a few steps away from the fishpond
and a small white sand beach.
Kaloko fish pond is large compared to
the ones we are familiar with in South Kohala, but the massive rock wall that
encloses the fishpond, restored after 13 years of effort, was unexpected.
Local Hawaiians with the knowledge of how to create kuapa walls by setting
interlocking stones without shaping them or using cement rebuilt the impressive
wall. We walked across the solid and stable structure and looked down at the
pounding surf. We marveled at how difficult it must have been to place
each stone so neatly and securely within all the other stones.
The mason
workers say that they “listen” to where the stone wants to be placed. The
recreation of a stone wall of this scale and complexity will hopefully retain
the knowledge of Uhau Humu Pohaku (Hawaiian Dry Stack Masonry) on Hawaii
Island.
The ‘Ai’opio fishtrap and Honokohau
beach are located at the southern end of the park. You can hike to it or
drive to a south park entrance within Kona’s Honokohau Boat Harbor. The
harbor entrance is at Kealakehe Parkway off Highway 19. The palm tree
lined Kealakehe Parkway has a plaque on the side of the road installed in 1964
recognizing the Hawaiian Honokohau Settlement as a National Historic Landmark.
The park entrance is located near Kona Sailing Club which can be
reached by taking a right turn at the first intersection on Kealakehe
Parkway road in the harbor. A large parking lot is located on the left and the park
gate is located on the right.
Pedestrian and animals on a leash can pass
through the gate to an unpaved park trail that leads to the coastline.
The trail is rocky from the gate to the beach, not wheelchair accessible, but
only about a half mile to the beach.
The beach in front of the fish trap
has a restored canoe house and shade for a picnic or enjoying the view.
The day we went, a few people had brought in chairs to spend the day snorkeling
or fishing.
The ‘Ai’opio fishtrap is an usual stone structure in a 1.7
acre pond. The stone walls surrounding the pond were low enough to allow
fish in during high tide but high enough to trap the fish at low tide.
The fish trap captured and stored fish as opposed to the fish ponds where fish
were raised.
At the south end of the
beach is Maliu Point Resource Area, a protected historical area with stone
walls and remains of a temple. The view from the point is great and we
could see huge fish jumping in the ocean by perching on the rocks.
An alternate walk from the park back
to the parking lot is near Mailu Point, where a gate leads to the side of
Kona’s Honokohau Small Boat Harbor channel. We enjoyed the walk along the
channel where the boats enter and leave the harbor.
The Kaloko-Honokohau National
Historical Park Visitor’s Center is located 4.2 miles south of Kona
International airport on Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway (Highway 19) and a half a
mile north of the entrance to Kona's Honokohau Harbor. The center has a
large parking area, bathrooms, and a small store. Park information and
maps are available and a park ranger is on site to talk story. Entrance
is free. The gate is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (website:
nps.gov/kaho)
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