When
we first moved to the Kohala plains near Kawaihae Bay on Hawaii Island, our
friends warned us about the fierce winds that blow constantly. They
claimed the sparse population along parts of the Kohala coast is partly from
the never ending wind.
We have lived in windy places before, on the mountains of Colorado and the plains of East Texas, so we were not worried about it. Actually we were looking forward to some
wind after living in Kailua Kona under the shadow of Hualalai Volcano which
blocks the trade winds.
It
turns out that there are often months between the strong winds in Kohala and much of the time it
is only mildly breezy or completely still. However, when the famous winds
start to blow, they are indeed unique. They start up in an instant; one second
it is calm and the next second there is a 45 mile an hour gale that can last a
week or two. Sometimes it is a steady wind and other times there are
ferocious gusts that sound like a hurricane. But unlike a hurricane, the
winds are dry and they actually lower the humidity. These fierce winds are
called mumuku.
Captain
Vancouver, who visited Hawaii Island in 1793, mentioned the dangers of the mumuku
winds to ships in Kawaihae Bay. The mumuku rush furiously down the
valley between Kohala and Mauna Kea mountains. They are apparently
foretold by an illuminated streak in the sky which can only be seen
inland in Waimea, where it is said the mumuku winds originate.
We
were almost knocked down by the strong gusts of wind this winter which feel like
a jet engine blast. The mumuku are without a doubt the
strongest gusts of wind we have ever experienced. Though we enjoy being
tossed around and feeling the incredible power of the wind now and then, we have
learned to have great respect for these Kohala winds. On mumuku days we change the route of our
daily walk to avoid being killed by flying coconuts or huge tree branches
crashing down on us. We have seen trees split into pieces by the wind,
branches strewn on the ground, and waves whipped into a frenzy. Driving
on the Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway can be dangerous in these ferocious winds and
we can’t even imagine how a motorcycle or bicycle can handle the
gusts.
The
Hawaiian word for wind is makani, but the Hawaiians had unique names to
distinguish the different types of winds and their locality on the
island. Ulumano are the strong southeastern winds in Ka’u and
Puna. ‘Alahonua are the light breezes in Hilo. Naulu is
the sea breeze that brings sudden rain to Kohala and Apa’apa’a are the
strong winds that parch Kohala.
Having
lived in Hilo and Kona, and now Kohala, we can attest to the dramatic
differences in the winds in each place. Living on Hawaii Island in the
summer without air conditioning makes any sudden breezes an incredible delight
and we have come to enjoy the mumuku
when they arrive.
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